Storm season in Hawthorn rarely announces itself. One afternoon the sky is a soft grey; the next, the gutters are overflowing, a limb is down across the footpath, and someone's carport is wearing a tree. Most of the damage reported after a big blow isn't dramatic. It's water finding a gap it has been working on for years. A few quiet weekends of preparation now are the difference between mopping a hallway and replacing a ceiling.
Wind gets the headlines, but water gets into the house. Almost every storm-related repair bill starts with drainage that was already struggling.
Clear them while the debris is dry and the ladder isn't sitting in mud. If you have deciduous trees anywhere near the roofline, plan on one clean-out before the wettest months and another after the first big leaf drop. Check that each gutter run falls slightly toward its downpipe instead of pooling in the middle, and that downpipes are connected and discharging well away from the foundations. A downpipe that dumps water at the base of the wall is a slow-motion problem that shows up as damp plaster months later.
You don't need to climb up. From the ground, with binoculars, look for slipped or cracked tiles, lifted flashing around the chimney, sagging gutter runs and rust streaks that suggest water is already getting in. Small repairs made in calm weather cost far less than the ceiling repairs that follow. Anything steep, high or awkward is a job for a licensed tradesperson, and if your local rules require a licensed contractor for that kind of work, follow them.
Look up. Dead limbs, branches rubbing on the roof, and trees that have grown into overhead wires are the three things worth a professional's opinion before the wind arrives. If the tree sits on council land or the nature strip, call your local council rather than a private arborist. They hold responsibility for street trees and have their own inspection schedule. Never prune anything near powerlines yourself.
Then walk the yard and think about what becomes a projectile. Trampolines, wheelie bins, potted plants, garden furniture, hanging baskets, pool covers, and that loose sheet of iron behind the shed. Store them, strap them down, or move them into the garage. Move vehicles away from trees and from under carports that have been looking tired for a while, and clear leaves from the grate at the bottom of the driveway so the street drain can do its job.
You know where your house leaks, or you're about to find out. This tour takes fifteen minutes and covers the places that matter most.
Floors and low shelves are the first places water reaches. Shift bulk dry goods, pet food, and anything stored in cardboard onto higher shelves if you're in a low-lying spot. Fill a few containers with drinking water, and freeze a couple of bottles to help keep the fridge cold if the power drops.
Find your main water shut-off valve now and label it. Check floor wastes and drains for hair and lint. Look behind the washing machine at the hoses, because a burst hose during a blackout is a small flood with very bad timing.
Check window seals and latches. A window that rattles in a normal breeze will leak in a gale. Move electronics, rugs and anything sentimental off the floor near windows. Draw the curtains on the side the wind is hitting; they won't stop water, but they will catch glass.
These are usually the first rooms to take on water, so treat them as the frontline. Keep a mop, a bucket, old towels and a couple of tarps within reach rather than at the back of the shed. Learn how to release your garage door manually in case the power goes out.
The best emergency kit is the one you can find in the dark. Keep it in a single lidded tub, and check it at the start of each storm season.
Insurers ask for evidence, and the worst time to gather it is the day after a storm. Spend twenty minutes walking through every room with your phone. Take wide shots that show the layout, then close-ups of anything valuable: the television, the bike in the garage, jewellery, tools, appliances, and the serial numbers where you can find them. Don't forget the outside, including fences, sheds and the garden.
Store the images somewhere that isn't the house, such as cloud storage or a USB stick kept at a relative's place, and email a copy to yourself. While you're at it, read your policy rather than assuming what's covered: check the excess, the claims phone number and whether you have cover for temporary accommodation. Policies differ a great deal, so if anything is unclear, ask your insurer directly or speak to a professional adviser.
As a system approaches, work through this in order.
Treat every fallen line as live and stay well back, and keep children and pets away from floodwater, which can hide sharp debris and contamination. Photograph damage before you clean it up or throw anything away, since insurers may want to see the original condition. Wear gloves and boots for the messy work, and be careful with chainsaws and ladders when you're tired.
Report the damage promptly, keep receipts for emergency repairs, and don't authorise major structural work before your insurer has had a look. If a dispute over cover drags on, that's the point to get proper advice rather than pushing ahead alone. Then, when the weather clears and the adrenalin fades, fix the small things you noticed. That's how next season gets easier.
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